Niepoort LBV 2017, Douro, Portugal (19.5%)

Ancient vines, hand picked and 100% trodden and fermented in the circular granite lagares at Vale de Mendiz. Made to the same exacting standards as their vintage port, with foot-treading in lagar and no fining or filtration, the LBV retains all the primary fruit of great ruby, with plums, blackberries, and dark cherry, but integration, development, and complexity from 4 years in barrel. The inclusion of ripe stems provides herbs, spice and a herbaceous lift to wonderful, soft tannic structure and natural acidity. The palate is intense but soft and full of juicy flavour. Great now or maybe in another 10 years. LBV fills the gap between the rubies and the vintage ports since a Ruby Port should be drunk quite young and a great Vintage Port may need 15 to 20 years to really open up and show its splendour.