Zahel, An Amphora Gruner Veltliner 2019, Vienna, Austria (13%)




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Big colour here. Mid October harvest in a beautiful vintage meant that the grapes were expressive in all sorts of lovely ways. There’s the terracotta licking thing all over again but Grüner is bigger and waxier and more coating and covers it up to quite a large extent so you have to go looking. Orangey notes are eye-catching, texture is beautiful, there’s a complete ‘vinous’ feel rather than too many individual notes and there’s a definite sense that this is just at the start of its journey.